Two years ago Wednesday, all Colorado restaurants were ordered shut down as the COVID-19 pandemic began.

So it’s particularly poignant for those in the industry that Wednesday the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards named the top five “Best Chef” finalists from the Mountain division and every one is from metro Denver.

The list includes Chef Dana Rodriguez, who has taken over as head chef for the popular Lakewood restaurant Casa Bonita – scheduled to re-open later this year. Her nomination was for her Work and Class restaurant, which has been nominated several times over the years. But she never made the short list until Wednesday.

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“My business partner called me this morning and said ‘We’re going to Chicago’,” Rodriguez said.

The other finalists included: Jose Avila, El Borrego Negro in Denver; Cody Cheetham, Tavernetta in Denver; Caroline Glover, Annette in Aurora; Eric Skokan, Black Cat Farm Table Bistro in Boulder.

Finalists were announced Wednesday in Scottsdale, Ariz., and winners will be announced at a ceremony June 13 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.

“It’s a very big deal there’s a Mountain West category, which allows Colorado talent to shine,” said Denise Mickelsen, spokeswoman for the Colorado Restaurant Association. “Colorado chefs were up for a number of awards in 2020, before everything was cancelled.”

Colorado used to be in the “South West” division, which included Texas and Nevada – so it was up against chefs in Dallas, Houston and Las Vegas. 

There hasn’t been a ceremony since 2019.

For many, it’s hard to imagine a James Beard nominated chef running a family restaurant known for unique entertainment like cliff divers, but notoriously mediocre food.

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But Rodriguez said Wednesday she’s looking forward to the challenge, and appreciates a small opportunity for revenge after the restaurant’s previous owners passed on hiring her. It was the first restaurant she applied to more than 20 years ago.

“It’s going to be a very interesting and fun combination,” she said.

Rodriguez has since gone on to open two other restaurants besides Work and Class, Super Mega Bien and Cantina Loca, in addition to her own brand of tequila Dona Loca. Her nickname is “Loca.”

Casa Bonita “will be something very unique,” Rodriguez said. “I’m blessed those guys are giving me this opportunity for this very popular restaurant that was in bad shape.”

She said customers who expect to get enchiladas, or the famous sopapillas, will still get those when Casa Bonita re-opens – but they will be made with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients.

“I’m going to bring Mexico, and I’m going to do it right,” Rodriquez said.

Both Rodriquez and Mickelsen said the finalists show James Beard Foundation is branching out, and including many more types of restaurants. It used to be reserved for long-time restaurants, mostly expensive and exclusive.

“It’s a wide-open playing field now, and all the amazing talent is rising to the top,” Mickelson said.

Rodriguez said she’s never been about awards or pretense.

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“People coming to Work and Class expect a square meal and a stiff drink at a good price – I’m driven by that working class,” she said.

The last Colorado winner in the James Beard division awards was Denver Chef Alex Seidel for Mercantile Dining & Provision in 2018. 

The awards, established in 1991, recognize the best in the restaurant industry nationwide. A link to all semifinalists, and the rules, is at jamesbeard.org.