In Colorado’s second-biggest city, Gen. William Jackson Palmer is a household name. He’s the celebrated founding father of Colorado Springs.

But little do residents know about his legacy to the southwest.

Palmer is also the man behind Durango, where he extended his railroad to service the rich mines of the San Juan Mountains. Starting in 1880, he and partners bought land to establish the town site, christened from the Basque word “Urango,” meaning “water town.”

Today, Main Avenue recalls that railroad. The Victorian storefronts remind of the boom under Palmer, the red faces of the mountains in view emblematic of the minerals sought. And the water isn’t far — the Animas River, what lonely and mournful Spanish explorers called Rio de las Animas Perdidas, or River of Lost Souls. Here they thought of Purgatory, a name carried by the ski slopes of Purgatory Resort.

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But Durango isn’t so much a ski town as it is a summer town. The hills bustle with hikers and mountain bikers, while the river ferries souls very much alive — boaters catching a thrill.

Main Avenue’s shops and eateries bustle as well.

Stop in

Durango’s motto: “Small town charm. Big town fun.” You get that sense roaming between 500-plus boutiques, gift stores, antique shops, galleries and outfitters.

In the heart of downtown is Main Mall, an architectural head-turner. Among occupants is Dolce, a fashion-forward women’s boutique; outdoor gear dealer Pine Needle Mountaineering; and Guild House Games, a boon for kid collectors and gamers.

Also near the town center is a different kind of department store: the Durango Antique Market, where patrons look for one-of-a-kind finds between 25 vendors. More hunting at Durango Treasures, with home goods, decor, toys, jewelry and more. Handmade woodwork, pottery, soaps, lotions and more at Sticks and Stones.

Elsewhere along Main Avenue, Animas Trading Co. insists it is not your typical shop on the corner. With clothes, accessories and gifts from around the world, the promise is “unique, interesting and fun.”

That aptly describes Earthbound Trading Co., which started as a rock and mineral shop in the 1990s and now features meditative essentials and bohemian wear.

More fun at Beads and Beyond, which has inspired creativity since 1992 with its customizable array of stone, crystal, glass, bone and wood. Since 1973, Overland Sheepskin has added fur and leather to wardrobes.

Maria’s Bookshop has been a staple for more than 35 years. Another staple is the Ski Barn, proudly calling itself Durango’s “outdoor toy store.”

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Food and drink

On the main drag, Durango Diner is the old-school breakfast spot maintaining much of its character from 1965 — along with its green chili. If you’re on the go, you might opt for a doughnut from Durango Doughworks. Or perhaps a French-inspired pastry from Jean Pierre Bakery, family-owned and operated since 1969.

Where auto shops and gas stations occupied a corner of Main Avenue in the 1920s, now food trucks unite for 11th Street Station. Another corner delight: Michel’s Corner Crepes, where you can go sweet (apple, caramel and walnut tops that side of the menu) or savory (pulled pork and goat cheese anyone?).

Grassburger lives up to the name with all-natural beef and potato buns. The owning family trusts you’ll taste the difference in classic options like bacon-cheddar and mushroom-Swiss.

Fired-up Pizzeria strives for authentic Neapolitan pies like the prosciutto specialty, which blends fresh mozzarella, tomato and arugula between crispy, wood-fired crust.

The most-reviewed Mexican spot is Nayarit, where the seafood offerings are surprisingly vast and varied for this desert region. Fast and fresh is the mission at Zia Taqueria, with daily specials like homemade tamales.

The Strater Hotel is a a sprawling, elegant landmark dating to 1887 that lives on as an old-time watering hole. Inside is the Diamond Belle Saloon, an unforgettable step back in time. The neighboring Office Spiritorium perfects cocktails and small, elevated bites.

Steamworks and Carver are among breweries off Main Avenue in this beer-loving town.

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Entertainment

For fresh air by downtown, take in the tranquility of Buckley Park. Or walk or ride a bike along the 7-mile Animas River Trail.

The greenway travels by several destinations, including the Durango State Fish Hatchery and Wildlife Museum. Established in 1893, the facility raises iconic trout and educates about the animals of the region. Another must-stop is Durango Botanic Gardens.

The most famous destination around, of course, is the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. From downtown, the train runs to a smaller, more remote mountain town and showcases some of Colorado’s most awe-inspiring scenery along the way.

For a glimpse at more history along Main Avenue, consider the Roundhouse Museum and the 1898 General Palmer Hotel.

Off the main drag, Animas City Theatre hosts premier live performances.