DENVER • Just because I’d never thought of appetizers at breakfast, who was I to question the concept? Especially when Jelly Café has the perfect way to whet the appetite, without spoiling it for a full meal: doughnut bites.

They’re the first things listed on the menu and rate a large marquee-lit sign above the counter. With eight filling or topping choices, these are made-to-order doughnut holes. The hard part is deciding which ones unless you order one of each ($6.25). The options include jelly, lemon, cinnamon sugar, Mexican chocolate, salted caramel, Thai peanut, creme Anglaise and maple bacon. Orders of four ($4.25) and a dozen ($8.25) are also available.

With two Denver locations, we dined at the Caphill neighborhood venue; this is a bright, colorful spot. Jelly’s menu focuses on breakfast entrees with a few salads and sandwiches served beginning at 11 a.m.

Following our doughnut starters, we enjoyed corn flake French toast ($13.75), avocado caprese toast ($13), a lavender blueberry pancake ($7.25) and chilaquiles ($12.25)

If you’re wondering about the French toast, so were we. Thick slices of challah are coated with the breakfast cereal, which, surprisingly, maintained its crunch. After all, those flakes can get soggy when sitting in milk for too long. Two pieces of egg-soaked bread are topped with a mix of macerated strawberries, blueberries and blackberries dusted with powdered sugar. Syrup is served on the side, but went untouched. There was plenty of sweetness on the plate.

Smashed avocado is smeared on toasted multigrain bread. From there things get pretty: golden heirloom tomatoes, creamy slices of mozzarella cheese, shredded basil and drizzles of balsamic glaze. As if that isn’t enough color, it shares the dish with a salad of spinach, blueberries, mandarin oranges and raspberry vinaigrette. This combination of fresh ingredients is what gives health food a good name.

The single-plate-size blueberry pancake was a meal in itself. It’s buttery with berries topped with house-made lavender blueberry preserves, which provide a tangy, floral taste. We skipped the syrup on this, also. Other pancake varieties include bacon made with jalapeno, sweet corn and bacon crumbles; cinnamon roll and buttermilk. Gluten-free cakes are available for an upcharge.

Our least favorite was the order of chilaquiles. The strips of tortilla chips topped with two eggs, black beans, cheese and pickled onions, then covered with green chili (red and vegan jackfruit green chili are also available) didn’t mesh well. It might have been the inclusion of the tart onions that threw it off. Kudos, though, to the green chili with an impressive amount of cubed pork.

A large sign above the counter lists coffee, tea and other beverages. The décor is vintage mixed with industrial. The small counter for seating is retro and there’s a mix of functional design elements including ventilation pipes and eclectic lighting fixtures. Several of the brick walls are adorned with old cereal boxes encased in Plexiglas. There’s also a full bar.

Jelly Café does not take reservations, but it’s possible to join a waitlist online; this is a good idea since it’s a popular spot.

Jelly Cafe

Popular for breakfast, brunch and lunch.

Location: 600 E. 13th Ave., Denver

Contact: 1-303-831-6301; eatmorejelly.com 

Prices: $8 to $14.25

Hours: 7 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays; 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi.

Favorite dishes: Corn Flake French toast and lavender blueberry pancake

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.