“Pagosa” derives from a Ute word said to mean “healing waters.” Settlers would flock, overtaking unobstructed grounds forever roamed by tribes, and a town would rise around these bubbling waters in southwest Colorado.

Army surveyor and explorer Capt. James Macomb was one who came by this mountainous, river-streaked land where steam rose into the sulfur-smelling air. In his 1859 journal, he predicted: “It can hardly be doubted that in future years it will become a celebrated place of resort.”

Right he was.

Pagosa Springs claims the “Mother Spring,” said to be the world’s deepest geothermal spring. It is the source of several dips that simmer around town — the source indeed of the resort economy that thrives during winter.

While soaking is the main draw during the colder months, there is much more to do around Pagosa.

Soak it in

The Springs Resort is the most celebrated destination in town. It was famously the destination of legendary talk show host Oprah Winfrey; the “O” Suite is in her honor, among luxurious accommodations here. An overnight gets you around-the-clock access to the terrace of multi-size, multi-temperature pools overlooking the San Juan River.

Nearby is family-owned Healing Waters Resort & Spa, the more affordable, more rustic option. Hotel rooms, larger suites and park model cabins are situated around a hot springs-fed pool and outdoor and indoor hot tubs.

Meanwhile, Overlook Hot Springs differentiates itself with the view. Soaking tubs are perched atop a Victorian roof in the heart of town, overlooked by the stunning San Juans.

Train your eyes up and down the river. Locals have known their own “hippie dips,” forming rocks around hot spots.

Elsewhere outdoors

Up the pass from town, Wolf Creek Ski Area is regarded as a hidden gem across Colorado ski country. The family-owned ski area bypasses the resort frills and crowds more common to the Interstate 70 corridor and packs on the powder. Wolf Creek claims to receive more natural snowfall on average than any other ski area in the state.

If you prefer flatter terrain and saving money on a ticket — we’re talking free here — check out the cross-country trails groomed by Pagosa Nordic Club. The network is detailed on the nonprofit’s website. Also free: ice skating on the ponds at River Center Park, when conditions allow.

For a more unique mode of winter travel, stop by San Juan Sled Dogs and Mountain Paws Dog Sled Tours. And if snowmobiling sounds appealing, book guides with Third Generation Outfitters and Wolf Creek Snowmobile Tours.

Cheers to the trip

Like every other classic Colorado town, Pagosa Springs boasts a selection of craft beer. And not just any craft beer, but “earth-powered beer,” referring to the Mother Spring’s geothermal energy. It’s the energy said to heat water in Riff Raff Brewing Co.’s recipes.

Maybe that’s where your craft beer tour starts. You’d be wise to eat up before imbibing: The Break Room Brewing Co.’s beer is as beloved as its chicken fried steak, among hearty grub on the menu. Continue your suds tour and see what’s pouring and cooking in the ovens at Mountain Pizza & Taproom.

If you’d rather have wine, Cork & Board has a long list to go with charcuterie. For cocktails and vibes, The Neon Mallard is a go-to. And then there’s the go-to for happy hour: Kip’s Grill for tacos and margaritas. Meander Eatery is the farm-to-table splurge.